Category: Hand tools

When my neighbor moved, he gave me his old wheelbarrow. It was in a terrible condition, outside probably most of its life. The wood handles were on their way out via rotting and snapped on first heavy load. Nevertheless, solid replacement wheelbarrow handles brought it back to life and it is still in use.

Wooden Wheelbarrow Handle Kit

I prefer go wood handles because all my metal handle kits actually rust through rather quick. Paint rust and chips, just nasty. Good wooden handles don’t rust and will last a long time if the wheelbarrow is not left in the rain all year round. The wood handles are usually a much larger diameter, they are more controllable and a lot more comfortable as well.

AMES Company wooden wheelbarrow handlesIf you want your wooden handles last for decades, treat them with linseed oil, thinned down a bit with paint thinner. Even if the wheelbarrow sat out in the sun, rain and snow, it will last almost forever. Some wood handles  kits have a coating on them, and I’d sand them a bit enough for the linseed oil to penetrate. The linseed oil almost does not weather away and your abused handles will be in great shape.

True Temper Wheelbarrow Replacement Handles

True Temper wheelbarrows come with a metal bucket and wooden handles, that are thinner than I want. They are quite lightweight but will serve you for years with moderate use.

Replacement handles are far better quality, made of hardwood and are more sturdy than the original ones. The finish is very thin and will begin peeling within a few months of sitting outside. Better to sand them out and oil to make them last.

Steel Wheelbarrow Handles

Steel handles are good for those who are rough on a wheelbarrow and the wooden ones did not cut it.

If you want to extend working life of the metal, paint the handles and wedges with a rattle to help them survive after some time in the weather. Of course, some of the paint will flake off, but the handles will be in good shape.

Another con of the metal handles is rubber. With time it tend to get gooey and if you remove it, hot or cold handles are not pleasant also. In this respect, wood is always better.

Conclusions

As I mentioned  above, all you need is to buy or make sturdy wooden handles. If you take a few coats of linseed oil before install and once a year do an occasional ‘tuneup’ – it is usually all that is necessary for them to last 50 years 🙂 Oh, and wear good gloves. It protects your hands from lots of bad stuff and makes handles less irritating.

 

Stone chisel is hit with heavier type of hammer to increase the force, so it is to be tough and heavy. For example, a rock chisel for demolition work is typically used with a hammer weighing three pounds or more.

You can also find brick bolsters with a wide and flat blade that are used for cutting. Sculptors work with a bent spoon chisels with the bevel on both sides, etc.

In our post we’ll discuss the most common chisel types to help you make an informed decision and find the best tool for your project.

Stone Chisel: What is it Made of?

Common steel the industry uses for stone chisels is shallow hardening alloys with a high amount of carbon. The rock chisel should be hardened, and a temper is drawn from the center to the ends. Thicker tools are made softer than ones with thinner shanks. Over time, the top of the chisel begin to mushroom. Remove flared metal with a grinder, or they may fly off and cause injury.

Chisels for large scale stone removal are often made of chrome vanadium steel. And tools with a softer shaft in my practice work the best by far. The shafts on fully hardened chisels would split quickly.

Good example of reliable tool is an treated chrome-vanadium Finder chisel. The handguard of the tool protects the hand from overstrike, but it is not very tough. It may break after several hard hits. Nevertheless we recommend to buy the product for the indestructible chisel and take into account that you  can always buy or make your own guard.

For fine carving work, sculptors use Mn Alloy Steel chisels with asymmetrically ground edges or even tungsten carbide tipped ones. Carbide tools are very brittle. But they are very hard and keep the cutting edge sharp for a long time. It is very important if you are working hard stone.

Choosing the Best Rock Chisel for Your Project

If you work with stone a lot, you’d be fine with a range of cold chisel sizes.  Bigger rock chisels for the bigger cobblestone, smaller – for breaking stone down a bit further. My advice is to get chisels with hand guards; There is nothing more frustrating than hitting your wrist or hand with a hammer!

Masonry chisels will work fine for some types of rock. The hardened “cold”  chisels are tougher and come in all sizes too. You will definitely find a use for a several small cold chisels and they will cost for about $10 each.

Choosing Rock Hammer and Chisel Set

The handle and the head of the rock hammer is all one piece of steel. The head has an end that looks more like a pick and another side is for striking. One piece construction helps to deal with the amount of force to break the rocks and withstand heavy load. Hammers with polymer shock-absorbing grips are much more comfortable than leather ones. Some of these “rubber” type handles are durable and may last decades. Don’t use common carpenter hammers because they aren’t designed for pounding against steel chisel or rock and sometimes they spall shards or shatter.

I believe the Estwing hammer and the chisels you personally choose are the best bet on rock hammer and chisel set. And in my humble opinion, a crack hammer is a tool you should always have in your inventory. With it you’ll be able to split small rocks and work larger boulders with a chisel.

The crack hammer will last forever, but the pick end wear out or even may break off. All you will need is to re-sharpen the end and eventually buy a new one. The only con is that the hammer hasn’t enough weight really get much work done on their own.

Estwing is the best choice of prospectors, rockhounds and contractors – longest lasting striking tools available. This is a great and tough tool, it feels good in the hand, has a great balance and nice grip. Yes, Estwing cost a little more, but it worth every penny.

Conclusions

Choosing the stone chisel depends on the type and size of rock you are working and what your goals are.

If you are a professional, the only choice is to buy high quality tools from known brand. Low quality chisels become dull quick, their back ends flare easily. Cheap noname hammers comes with a tube handle that bend after several missed hits, the rubber handle come loose, etc.

Nevertheless, a novice or occasional master should think about choosing a cheap set of chisels and more or less reliable hammer. Yes, they won’t last long, but you’ll find out sizes and types you really need and will replace it with a high-quality tool later.

Read also our article best paring chisel

 

Even the best tool belt suspenders are pretty cheap and I think you will do yourself a great favor if you buy them. I often see my colleagues with, for example, occidental framers, who constantly either hitching the belt up or tight it too much. So the suspenders are a very convenient thing and in this post I will share my thoughts on this topic.

Why do you need them

Everyone can wear a nearly empty tool belt, but after adding a few bulky tools and a box of screws, it becomes uncomfortable. Sooner or later you’ll get to the point where your hips begin to ache while walking because the rig is slung so low.

Furthermore, some time ago I read in the NEJoM that tight belts and pants can really do some damage to your body over time. In my experience, buying work pants one size larger and using suspenders reduces the fatigue and helps to work with more comfort. My leg pain went away once I started wearing the belt and although It took a while to get used to suspenders, now I don’t even notice them anymore.

Best Leather Tool Belt Suspenders

The leather suspenders weighs more, but they are much more tough and reliable. They also may cost more but if you use your belt more often than any other tool, it is a good investment.

The leather breathes (and I love the smell) better than nylon, wide nylon belt and suspenders leave a wide sweat stain around my waist and back. They can get a little tight in small closets but when you’ll become used to them, you’ll be able to slide through a 2-0 door without an issue. The pouch with the phone attached to the suspenders is really handy, and gives an extra.

Leather is the way to go for sure. Most known leather suspenders are the Occidentals, and they are just super heavy duty ones. Of course, you can find a different brand, but the Oxy quality is one of the best.

Occidental 5009 suspenders will fit any big dude, but still they are highly adjustable. If you are not so tall, all you need is make additional holes in the straps. The shoulder pads are wide and comfortable. The leather is good quality and made for actual work. The only downside is that in the first months they get the shirts dirty, especially in summer. Nevertheless, just buy the Oxy and you will never regret it!

Dewalt tool belt suspenders

Dewalt tool belt suspenders are more comfortable than the normal ones from not so known brand. They are also nice because of the built in cell phone pocket. 

The suspenders are 2.5 times cheaper than Oxys and much lighter and softer. Instead the loops it has wide velcro wrap around the belt. In this way you can also use them to support your loose pants by looping the straps tool and pants belts. The velcros won’t rust, and the padded shoulder straps are comfortable for long wear doing hard work.

Dewalts are not as heavy as Oxys. These are actually medium to light suspenders for users with lightweight rigs. The product won’t last as long as leather models, but it can be ideal for occasional DIY use.

Milwaukee tool belt suspenders

Milwaukee padded rig is a nylon product, a little more expensive than Dewalt. The suspenders come in two sides: 48-22-8145, regular, fits users up to 6’2″ (in fact, up to 5’8″); and 48-22-8146, XL, fits users up to 6’8″.

The phone holder is very small and can’t be used with modern smartphone. Belt clasps are made of metal and decently constructed. They holds a heavy tool belt very well and it doesn’t slide off. The suspenders are durable, very comfortable on the shoulders and the overall quality is good.

The only (but serious) con is the size. The rig is not designed for taller folks. Regular size is too short for 6’2″, the rear straps are a bit short. If you are 5’8″ or taller, choose XL size.

Overall, if you choose the right size, the Milwaukee is a good product. It is durable and convenient, made of 1680 Denier Nylon and all metal hardware. Good choice for those who look for soft and lightweight suspenders.

Occidental tool belt suspenders

Oxy tool belt suspenders are one of the most trustworthy products, they are heavy-duty, reliable and look great, but they are pricey. And not all local stores carry them so you could really try them on.

In my practice, everyone who bought Occidental leather products notes their high quality and reliability. Most guys love them.

Occidental Leather 5055 Stronghold  suspenders are one of the best products by the brand. These suspenders look good and will easily last more than 5 years of everyday use.  Of course, they work the best with Oxy belt. The loops on it are made of steel and the hooks on the suspenders are die cast zinc.

Occidental suspenders are comfortable and really help wearing a heavy belt all day. The leather, nylon, hardware and padding are all high quality and durable. The straps and cushions distribute the weight very evenly between the shoulders and hips so when raising your arms, you didn’t feel any any discomfort on the shoulders.

Once again, suspenders come with amazing customer service. If after several years tough use the metal clips will worn enough to broke, the company will send you new clips with rivets for free.

If you look for product that will need your professional everyday needs, buy Occidental and you’ll see why they it is so popular.

Conclusions

My friends say they use suspenders because their butts are too small. I have plenty of butt, but I also have plenty of belly, too 🙂

So for me, having the tool belt suspenders are no-brainer, they keep the belt up where I want it. The only downside I see is that if one bag has a heavy tool in it, the suspender strap just pulls down and the other side lifts up. But again, this is MUCH better than a slipping belt.

Every hiker likes having compact files, pliers, saws and a few other tools on his belt. Especially, if it is light and compact enough to don’t notice it there. Of course, the multi tool is often only a complement to plain tools, but if the all-arounder tool is strong enough, why not? This is not to say that I am a survival multi tool fan. I never used to carry an EDC multi tool. Although I use Leatherman multi tool around the apt. I usually carry a Swiss Army Knife when camping or hiking. My tastes change over time and now the best survival multi tool for me is Victorinox Swisstool Spirit, and it feels smooth, compact and I don’t feel clunky with it.

Best Survival Multi Tool

In my opinion, the best survival tool you can have is a solid knife.  If you are forced to take just one tool, take a knife. Therefore, if you don’t have a good knife, my advice is to choose and purchase it.

Good example is an ESEE 6 fixed blade knife. It is a made in USA 6.50″ carbon steel blade knife with an ambidextrous polymer sheath. It is made of 1095 carbon steel, 55-57 RC and comes with  no questions asked lifetime guarantee.

The knife is razor sharp right out of the box and you’ll love the handle ergonomics! The flat grind is allows you to resharp it with a river rock. The knife is perfectly balanced, with its contoured handle and 5 3/4 blade you can deal with any task from camp task to major work.

As for the multi tool itself, I think you can’t go wrong if you’ll purchase Leatherman Wave. It’s pretty tough tool, I’ve used the pliers for breaking steel banding on pallets as a test, it worked well and without a problem.
I will not claim that if it’s the best multi tool for survival, I would trust it.

 

I keep a Wave attached with a Maxpedition single mag pouch which is attached to the ESEE 6 sheath. With a firesteel and a led flashlight this  is the best of all worlds in a single small package.

My building maintenance friend carries a Leatherman Charge for everyday use and uses it very often. Few months ago he broke the jaw and Leatherman sent him a new one.

So, for a handyman, the Charge can be a great tool for everyday and camping, it’s really sturdy and versatile.

Once again, I love multi-tools, however for survival tasks they never replace a good knife and can only serve as a supplement.

Best Multitool for Backpacking

A multitool for backpacking should be light and portable. I think, you don’t really need the screwdrivers, etc. For me, the best multi tool for backpacking is a Leatherman Micra. And a pocket knife as a separate tool.

Leatherman Micra has the best scissors you can find on a multi-tool and the spring that won’t break. It is claimed as keychain tool, but in my opinion Micra is a little bulk heavy for it. Nevertheless, it is great multitool for backpacking: capable, well designed and compact.

As I’ve mentioned above, the knife is the most important tool for hiker. Therefore, I carry a good fixed blade knife for cutting and a Micra for eyeglasses screwdriver, scissors and bottle cap lifter. And you should remember: it is a multi tool. Yes, it is versatile, most likely won’t outperform full size knife.

Another good multitool for backpacking is a Victorinox Swiss Army One-Hand Trekker. It is a great tool to carry during backpacking trip. It is made of 1.4110 steel which is roughly equivalent to 440A and it has fantastic performance. The steel is very resistant to rust, can take a serious beating but still it can be easily sharpened. It is a breeze to sharpen compared to trendy powdered steels. You you just grab your ceramic or Arkansas stone and take a few passes to bring it right back to shaving sharp.

The main blade has a great utilitarian design, it sports a Kephart blade pattern, nice polished uncoated finish and has a good balance of thickness of the spine vs thinness at the start of the secondary bevel. I also like the thumb opener on the blade.

The multitool saws made by Victorinox are leading in industry. This particular saw has aggressive double-sided teeth that cut wood efficiently, and the stiff handle helps keep the tool from snagging in the wood. A sharp 90 degree spine of the saw is able to produce great sparks of a ferro rod.

Overall, this is a good multitool for backpacking, not too heavy and fairly inexpensive – around $40 on Amazon. The only downsides are that it has no pocket clip and no locking feature for the saw.

Best Hiking and Camping Multi Tool

For car and simple tent camping, as usual, a multi tool is a companion for a fixed blade knife and tools. Leatherman Wave is my best camping multi tool for over 3 years now. It as well pairs extremely good with my full size knife. The most used part of are the pliers and the serrated blade. I use the serrated blade a prybar, scraper, chisel and for cutting tough things that would dull the knife. The file come in very handy at times and the saw is almost the same length as Victorinox Camper has.

The choice of the Wave for me was due to the fact that I like its pliers very much. However, not all of my friends consider it necessary. If you don’t need pliers, Victorinox Camper is more compact tool. The Camper is a thin and lightweight but very helpful when camping.

It is very pocketable, has standard 2 blades, openers and the screwdrivers read also (best screwdriver bit set). The saw will cuts any little branches fast so you can build a nice fire. I have recommended this camping multi tool to friends and bought several as gifts as well.

Best Fishing Multi Tool

The best fishing multi tool for salt water is a stainless Gerber MP400 Compact Multi-Plier. It doesn’t rust and  are very easy to clean and dry. The lock function works well, the scissors are sharp and versatile, the blade is good and sharp also. Gerber MP400 works for years, I’ve seen the tool after 5 years daily use and they still look as good as new. There was no loosen and broken parts and the case was still in one piece.

The multitool is relatively compact and very easy to carry. The pliers are comfortable and durable, and what I like the most is the ability to pull them out with one hand.

For fishing in freshwater, fly or spin try anything made by Victorinox with scissors and pliers. I would suggest stainless steel Victorinox Spirit.

Its pliers are long enough, and the multi tool is designed rather thinner than others. In this way it is able to get in most fish mouths, and hook extraction is very important for fishing. You can also open the tool with one hand, very convenient – the fish in one hand and the tool in another.

Scissors work well for line cutting, fishing, etc. Maybe you’ll need to re-profile the main blade, and it doesn’t have to be too pointy. I prefer to use a dedicated fixed blade for gutting fish. It is bigger and my multi tool won’t get stinky!

Best Survival Axe Multi Tool

For a mostly car camping I have several axes including a Gerber Gator Combo Axe II. It works well and meets all camping needs.

I keep this in the car for occasional camping need. It is a light tool with a nice saw, it is a great addition. One of the best thing the hatchet is the a lifetime warranty. You can find reviews with broken handles near the head. Maybe, but even it this case Gator replaces their product with another Axe. Myne tool work several years with any problems, but I agree, it doesn’t feel as sturdy as a regular hatchet.

If you  want an indestructible tool, I wood recommend Estwing hatchet. It will be a heavier than the Gerber, but it will last for decades with minimal maintenance. I would say it depends on your needs, ruggedness, or light weight.

This is a great axe – all one piece of forged steel, you can strike the handle next to the head to finish the split. Convenient thick rubber handle reduces the shock a lot, extra length allow you to chop with more force than with lighter hatchets. You can pry with it as well, the handle won’t break off.

Nylon sheath fits snugly and come with two secure snaps, the handle has a hole at the butt end for a loop of cord.

Conclusions

You should remember, that multitool, including multitool axe, is not so tough as regular one. If it has a a pliers, they won’t work as well as a real pliers, multitool isn’t so comfy or easy to use as an screwdriver, and you won’t saw down a  tree with its saw. But, you CAN do all this stuff with one tool if you really need.

Tool belts are needed for professional workers to help them when they are working away from their tool box of tools. For example, an electrician may work at a height, the ironworker may work on the floor which is too narrow to place anything, etc. In our article, we will help you to choose the best carpenter’s tool belt, as well as offer options that are convenient for electricians, ironworkers. We’ll also review roofing, scaffold and framing tool belts.

Best Carpenter’s Tool Belt

I prefer to use leather belts with canvas bags and suspenders. They are more convenient and comfortable, soft and compact. And even the belt may be nylon. That’s my opinion. Moreover, they don’t cost as much. Yes, they may wear out faster than leather, but their more frequent replacement is fully compensated for by a lower price. With a carpenter’s tool belt you just go with what you like the best.

I for some reason like the Occidental Leather tool belts, as well as their tool bags and buckets. Just a personal preference, I’ve used others as well, but like I said, it’s your preference that matters most.

My favorite is Occidental Leather 9855 Fat Lip Tool Bag Set. It is equipped with 10″ deep industrial nylon bags with leather-reinforced bottom and corners. There are a lot of multiple tool holders and a tool with hammer holder in the rear. The belt in my opinion is a good balance of durable vs light. The weight is evenly spreaded around the hips and the begs won’t shift out of position because they’re fixed. There will be no more bags sliding off the belt and dumping all nails out.

I also like the large pockets and how they stay open. The hammer handle fits good and doesn’t bang against the back the knee when I walking. There are also D Rings for use with suspenders. Tool belt suspenders doesn’t allow the tool belt to slide off the ass 🙂 When paired with the suspenders it becomes very comfortable even overloaded. And my advice is made in USA Occidental Leather 1546 – light industrial nylon suspenders with even weight distribution and fully adjustable front and rear

The Occidental leather are absolutely amazing, durable  and exceptionally well crafted. It is not all-leather material, an I like it, as I said before. Yes, it is expensive. But worth it absolutely, and will last very long

One of my friends hates tool belts, the wear him out and his pants slip down alot. His choice is a 2500 SuspendaVest and a couple oxy light bags. I’ve tried it. It was pretty comfy. I also like that with it you can remove the bags and use the 2500 as a lightweight tool vest. You can take off the whole rig in 2 seconds if needing to get in a tight space.

I’ve also tried a Occidental Leather  2580 SuspendaVest. It was comfortable too, but the larger compartments on the upper section are too much for me. If I were an electrician who needed big electrical devices it might be ok.

Best Framing, Roofing and Scaffold Tool Belts

When finding a tool belt and tool set, you should consider that lighter is better and  the less is more. Most of professional workers sooner or later come to a standard framer or carpenter belt with a fixed bags.

Typical compact set is 3 inch belt with electricians pouch on a right side, and standard nail pouch with hammer loop on the left. If there is real need, you can always buy a bag or even two.

With this minimalistic set the suspenders are not necessary, but you will be able to get the suspenders as well. In this case you can load up and the belt itself will actually loose at the waist!

The main concerns here are:

• If using suspenders, all the sweat from the back follows the suspender bearing points
• It takes a little patience, you need some time to get used to the set

Size, belt material and brand are personal choices. My favorite belts are pretty small and with suspenders. I also have a bucket boss full of tools. It easier for me to carry the bucket and only most used stuff in the belt. I have only two bags on it: a big a smaller ones.  My hammer is near the front, other tools I organize by their job.

On the right side there are “sharp tools” (chisel, utility blade, tin snips, sawzall blade, etc) and on the left there are all the measuring tools (speed and bevel square, torpedo level, needle-nose pliers, a chalk line, etc.). In the smaller pouches I put nails and screws when needed.

Do not carry useless tools 70% of the time, especially wrestling to get yourself and your big old belt through a 16 on center bay in a wall.

Best Electrician Tool Belt

Best electrician tool belt is the lightest one. Electricians are going up and down their ladders pretty often and they are not meant to be pack mules.

Tape holder and a pouch like Klein 5119 on the other side is often more than enough. You can carry all you need with it. Small belt bag that holds a multitool, wire strippers, a beater, linesman and dikes – there are all that is needed for 90% of electrical jobs.

Insead the belt you can even wear a small leather pouch when doing a repetitive task like wiring lights. It can successfully hold four or five tools and some parts that you really need.

But if you really need more tools, compact and pretty cheap model is CLC 3 Piece Electrical Combo

It is a good reliable belt with all parts interchangeable and removable. You can easily swap the bags or remove/add a pouch. 2-layer ballistic polyester fabric made it is heavy duty, the metal clip will hold any measuring tape.

The bags are deep enough so tools stay in, they are roomy and the handles are useful, and you can take the bag off when don’t want to wear both.

The belt’s price is about $75 and the quality it is good for a budget tool. It isn’t $300 organizer and you shouldn’t expect it’ll last forever. Expect 6-8 months of work and it will start ripping. Not so bad to test the idea and buy new one.

Ironworker Tool Belt

Structural tools may vary from project to project, so before choosing ironworker tool belt you need to know what tools you’ll need. Another thing you can do is ask your fellows if they’ve got tool belt for sale. It can’t hurt.

Some ironworkers may prefer belts with holders, fixed with rivets. Some prefer deeper and heavier pouches worn in reverse for working on a ladder. In any case you definitely need a tough and reliable belt with some bolt bags, a scabbard or two for pins/sleever/spuds, etc.

I recommend to purchase a work belt with tool pouch or bolt bag, pockets for pencil/soap stone, at least 25’tape measure, 12″ adjustable wrench and utility knife. If it’s within your budget, you can add markers, flint striker, torpedo level, duct and electrical tape, a multi tool.

Ironworkers, and other elevated trades working at trigger heights of of 15 feet, 10 feet or 6 feet above are required to wear a full body harness to comply with OSHA’s 29CFR.

Whether you wear a harness which incorporates an integrated removable tongue-and-buckle waist belt, or use a separate one, you may install aftermarket pouches and tool hangers.

A good example of tough holder is a Double Barrel Bull Pin/Wrench one.

This is a great top quality product made in the USA. It fits well and rides easily on the belt. With it, you won’t have any imbalance in your bags and it will easily last up to five years. Highly recommended for iron workers.

Occidental Leather 5520 Tool Holder is another great example.

It is made of sturdy american leather and may be worn on any belt up to 3 inches wide. With its sturdy stitching and nice leather you can be sure nothing will be bent, broken or deformed. The weight of tools won’t take a toll on this product, it is a highly recommended holder for anyone in the steel or construction industry.

Conclusions

For professional workers you can’t beat Occidental in almost any model or type. These are a little expensive, but these are worth every penny. And they will last 5 years and steel be in great shape. Their beltless systems SuspendaVest are great too. They are extremely comfortable, however, sometimes hot.

From the DIYer’s point of view, buying these expensive belts is questionable. If you wear the belt twice a month, any $10 one from HD or Amazon will do pretty much the same job. And at this pace, they will also last for years. Everyone is different, look for tools which suit your needs. To each their own.

Long paring chisels are tools mainly used for cleaning up the mortises and joints and make them an accurate fit. Although this is an optional tool, it is very handy to have if you work with joinery, and here we will help you to choose the best paring chisel set for the money.

Paring chisel diagram and features

Paring chisels are long and thin tools which can outperform the widely used bevel chisel when longer reach is required. They are also used when fitting joints to carefully shave off thin amounts of wood.

The lightweightness and long length gives you a lot of control. Usually, one hand of a master pushes the chisel forward while the other one, guides the cutting action up front on the blade to dress the sides of a mortise after roughly chopping with a mortise chisel.

Paring chisel bevel angle

Paring chisels’ bevel angle is low, and this is probably the main feature of the tool. The lower the angle, the lower force you need to apply for cutting. This also means  less of a need for a mallet and more control.

Bench chisels have 25° angle and Japanese ones about at 30-35 degrees, paring chisel are angled at 20° or less. The edge becomes very fragile but the cutting ability is superb. The wider the chisel, the more effort you need to push through wood, so the wider the tool, the more important a paring chisel angle is.

Of course, such a low angle requires tough steel.  Thereby, the best paring chisels are made of carbon steel with a hand forged for better performance.

Buck Brothers paring chisels are an example of the tool with well forged blade made of good alloy steel with heat treatment. The handle is made of mape and is big enough for convenient use and, if necessary, modifying for your individual grip. The blades are 10″ long and advertised at 57-59Rc.

Cranked neck paring chisels

Cranked neck paring chisels are designed for cleaning out flat surfaces and other places, which cannot be reached by regular chisels. They are a valuable addition for any woodworker because of their ability to work in hard-to-reach areas.

The blades of cranked neck paring chisels are shorter (up to 4″) for maneuverability. The offset handle provide clearance for work in restricted recesses or fitting housed joints. It is also helps to see the blade face and reduce risk of digging in when making flush-trimming projections.

WoodRiver paring chisel has 18° cranked neck and permits keeping the blade flat while grasping the handle. Works good when you need to
remove excess glue, trim protruding plugs and cleaning out corners. Average length is approximately 10″, the sizes are 1/4″, 1/2″, 3/4″, 1″. Comes at cutting age angle 25 degrees from the factory

The chisel is fairly decent for the price. The steel is a bit softer, so you’ll have to hone it a bit more often, but it also is easier to sharpen. The handle is comfortable and the offset is exactly what you need.

Best paring chisel set for the money in 2021

Narex paring chisels

Narex is a world renown Czech brand that produced tools for woodworking from 1919. More than 40% of the tools is exported worldwide.  Narex paring chisels blade is made of highly alloyed CrMn steel and heat treated up to 59 HRc. The handles are ergonomic, made of hornbeam wood and come with brass ferrule.

Narex premium 5 piece set with hornbeam handles and 25 degree bevel is a great example of the best paring chisel set. The tools came in a cardboard box, each one is in a plastic sleeve and edge protector.

All of the blade lengths are 9 1/2″ long. The sizes include 1 1/4″, “1”, 3/4″, 1/2″ and 1/4″. The backs of the chisels are flat, the edges are not honed. You’ll need a normal progression of medium to fine stone sharpening and honing on a strop before use.

Overall, these are really great value for money tools and will last for a long time.

They work great right from the box, but some carpenters resharp them to 20° with a 25º secondary cutting bevel. And with this angle they pare off the wooden ends literally like butter. The steel is great and chisels hold up the cutting edge much better than average.

Paring chisel vs bench chisel

Both bench and paring chisels may be long, but bench chisel is designed for workbench use. You can use it for paring and light chopping. 30º bevels and beveled edges make cutting by hand harder, but and an impact-resistant handle eliminates this drawback.

The blade is typically medium length with either bevelled or straight edges. The handle may be a tang- or socket-style. Overall, bench chisels are versatile general-purpose tools.

Paring chisel is thinner and it is not designed for striking, only paring. The bevel is in a range of 20-25 degree, usually with tang handles. The tool is designed to be pushed across a wood surface to remove small amounts of material when finishing or neatening up joints.

As a conclusion, if you are beginner, buy bench chisel first, it is a most common and versatile tool. Rather, the paring chisel is designed for finer work, paring and shaving the workpiece, cleaning up deep mortises and joints.

Read also stone chisel guide: choosing the best rock chisels

The question about best screwdriver bit set comes to most of masters after killing a few screws due to the use of too-soft and low-quality bits. Of course, everyone likes to avoid that. It’s not a lot of fun to rectify. Screwdriver bits are an essential part of your toolkit and we’ll help you to find best screwdriver drill bit set for your projects.

Common types and best drill screwdriver bit set in each category

With the screwdriver bits set you are covered for a lot of projects. And although modern tools are designed to ensure durability, you can’t expect any tool to last forever. Of course, you want to find best drill screwdriver bits capable of work with high torque and resist wear as long as possible, and we’ll help.

Common screwdriver bits designs

Before choosing the best drill screwdriver bit set, it’s a good idea to decide which type you need.

All the bits have 1/4″ hex shank, and fit into a drill with any chuck, including hex drive.

Insert bits have the shortest shank, they are the cheapest and are designed to easily clip into a magnetic bit holder.

DeWalt is moderately priced company that makes relatively inexpensive bits that are good for most applications. I remember watching my friend go through like 8 different Philips bits while we built a porch together. And I started the word with a deWalt bit and at the end of the day the same bit still were in acceptable condition. So my choice is obvious.

Power bits are convenient to use with a power drill, they are of longer length and cost are a little higher.

Black & Decker bits are another great example of ideal starter bit set. Pretty good quality and more than enough sizes for home use. Highly recommended, especially for the price!

Double ended bits have a screwdriver tip on each end and potentially give the bit a second life at less than double the cost. But they won’t fit into a 1/4″ hex drive chuck.

You can also find the bits with the hardened tip which is pressed into the hex shaft. The others have the hex bit that “curves” down to the needed square tip. Personally I’ve found the bits with the hardened tip lasting much longer than the others.

Most common tip types

Phillips bits are the most common type and for the most popular type of a screw. The bits look like a cross, and come in a range of sizes – #000, #00, #0, #1, #2, #3 and #4. The most common is #2.

My choice here is Bosch power bits. They are hard, seem very well tempered, fit the slots very well and don’t slip at all. They even grip on the cheap screws. With this bits I’ve made with hundreds of screws on one bit! Bosch screwdriver bits are adequately priced and good enough for a home run.

Pozidrive Bits are an improved Phillips bits with an additional contact points. They decrease the possibility the bit will cam-out and allow to apply greater torque and decreases wear. Main sizes are #1 – #3 and #2 the most common too.

You certainly use them when working Ikea furniture and with Wera bits you’ll avoid the using the wrong type of bit to assemble products. This particular set comes with a magnetic bit holder, the plastic case is handy and reliable.

Slotted head screws now are less common, but screwdriver tips are still available. They are not convenient for a power tool as the bit tends to slip out of the head.

Irwin slotted head bits are a little overpriced but I have used them and have been very pleased. They are hollow ground and thin enough to fit into slot head screws nicely. The bits are tough and hard and with occasional use will last almost forever.

Torx Bits have a form of a 6-sided star and resist cam-out much better than previously described bits, and were designed mainly for automatic screw driving machines. Sizes vary from T1 through to T20.

DeWalt are great, they’re under $10.00 priced and just get the job done. Both a bit driver cordless drill with adapter – no issues with quality like others. There are not breakage of the bits, and stripping of drive head. Performs well and fit good. The only drawback is the difficulty in removing the tool from the bit holder.

You can also meet other types such as square recess bits, nutsetters, drywall bits, torq bits, tri-Wing Bits, etc, but they are less common

Best screwdriver bits in the world

Honestly I don’t see what the problem is. I have about 20 sets of screwdriver bits and it is the tool that I almost can not pass up when it goes on sale. Over the years I’ve combined the best and most useful screwdriver bits in my own best in the world screwdrivers bit set. I should admit, about 75% of them are deWalts. In my practice the deWalts usually fit like a glove and almost never strip.

Conclusions

Even with the best screwdriver bits in the world you have to match right bit to the screw and that means to use a pozidrive bit for a pozidrive head screw and of course a tapered square bit for a Robertson. Nothing will save the bit and screw from premature failure if the head does not match the bit.